A Beginner's Guide to Crocheting a Raglan Sweater

The sleeves of raglan sweaters attach at the neckline instead of the shoulder, which is different from regular pullovers. This design makes diagonal seam lines that travel from the armpit to the neck. This makes the fit pleasant and relaxed, and it can be changed to match different body shapes.

You start at the neckline and work your way down when you build something. This method allows you to test on the sweater as you go, which is... well, very useful when you're learning. The results will be different depending on the yarn you choose and how tightly you knit.

Making Plans for Your Raglan Project

You need to make certain choices before you start. Pick a yarn weight that you can easily work with. Worsted weight yarn is great for beginners because it is easy to work with and shows your stitches clearly. Cotton or acrylic blends are wonderful choices because they can be washed and last a long time.

Take your measurements carefully. You will need to know the size of your chest, the length of your arms, and the length of the sweater you want. Put these measures somewhere safe so you don't lose them. You may believe me on this.

For your first try, use a simple stitch pattern. Single crochet or half double crochet makes lovely, even cloth that is easy to work with. Use the fancy stitches on your second or third sweater.

Getting Your Things Together

To finish this project, you'll need a few things. It's clear that you need a crochet hook that matches the weight of your yarn, but you should also keep a couple of sizes on hand in case you need to change the tension. Stitch markers are a huge aid for keeping track of your sections and increases.

You can always access a measuring tape throughout the project. You need scissors to cut the yarn, a yarn needle to weave in the ends, and a notepad to keep track of your progress.

Making the Yoke Base

Begin with a foundation chain that fits well around your neck. The chain needs to be able to be split into four parts, plus any other chains that are needed for your pattern. Use a slip stitch to join the pieces together to make a ring. Be cautious not to twist the chain.

Use stitch markers to divide your work into four parts: the front, the back, and the two sleeves. The front and back parts should have the same size, while the sleeve parts should start off small and get bigger with increases. This is where the shaping of the raglan takes place.

Do your first round in the stitch you picked, making increases at the four raglan lines. These increases make the diagonal seam lines that are typical of the raglan form. To keep the shape of the sweater, the increases should be the same size and spaced out equally.

How to Shape the Raglan Sleeves

Usually, the raglan increases happen every other round. At each of the four raglan lines, make two more stitches. Every time you increase, you make eight additional stitches, but the exact number may be different depending on the pattern and yarn weight. The math seems hard, but you'll get the hang of it shortly.

Check your work against your body measurements again and again. The yoke should fit well across your chest and shoulders. Add more rounds without making the rounds bigger if it feels too tight. You might need to start anew with a smaller foundation chain if it's too loose.

Keep going up until the depth of the armhole meets your measurement. This normally takes 15 to 20 rounds, depending on how big you are and how heavy the yarn is. The sleeve parts should look like they fit well with the front and rear parts.

Taking Off the Body and Sleeves

It's time to take the sleeves off the body once the yoke is the right depth. This step always makes me a little nervous the first time, but it's easier than it looks.

Put the sleeve stitches on some extra needles or waste yarn. You can use yarn that is different from the rest of it to make them easy to find later. Chain a few stitches to fill in the space where the sleeve was, and then keep going around the body.

The number of chain stitches you need will depend on your pattern and how you want it to fit. Usually, you'll chain between 6 and 10 stitches for each underarm, although this might change depending on the weight of the yarn and what you like. The next round will work these chains into the fabric, making the seam under the arm.

Finishing the Body

Set the sleeves aside and work the body in rounds that don't stop. Because you're working with bigger pieces, this stage passes very quickly. Keep the tension the same and stick to the stitch pattern you choose.

Put on the sweater every so often to see how it fits. The body should fit well but not be too loose. You can add or skip stitches across numerous rounds to change the width.

Work the body until it is the right length for you, but remember that the sweater will stretch a little bit as you wear it. Most people like their sweaters to hit at the hip or slightly below, but it really depends on the person.

Finishing the Sleeves

Go back to the stitches you laid aside for the sleeve. Pick up the stitches and work in rounds, making the sleeve gradually smaller as you go. How much you want the sleeves to fit will determine how fast they go down.

To get a looser fit, decrease every 8 to 10 rounds. If you want a tighter fit, consider decreasing every five to six rounds. Keep note of your decreases to make sure both sleeves match, and keep in mind that your mileage may vary based on your yarn and how you want it to fit. This is where the notebook comes in handy.

Finish the sleeves by making them the length you want and adding a ribbed cuff or a simple border. The cuff should be tight enough to keep in place but not so tight that it cuts off blood flow.

Adding the last touches

Depending on your foundation chain, you may need to pay attention to the neckline. A basic single crochet border usually works fine, but if you want a more professional look, you can add ribbing.

Carefully weave in all the loose ends. This process takes time, but it's important to do it right. A sweater that is otherwise gorgeous can seem cheap if the ends are not finished well.

Block your finished sweater according to the care directions for your yarn. Blocking makes your stitches look even and makes the sweater look professional. Mary Maxim often talks about how important it is to block things correctly in order to make polished, completed products.

Fixing Common Problems

Don't worry if your sweater is too big. You may easily fix small sizing problems by changing the ribbing or adding darts. If it's way too big, think of it as a lesson learned and start again with a smaller foundation chain.

Everyone gets uneven stitches, especially when they are just starting out. With experience, you may get consistent tension. Instead of trying to make the yarn perfectly consistent, focus on keeping the tension steady.

You don't have to start again if you drop a stitch or make a mistake several rounds back. Learn how to use your crochet hook to correct problems one at a time by working backwards. YouTube lessons might be useful for learning certain skills.

A lot of pattern resources have thorough troubleshooting sections that answer frequent questions that beginners have.

When problems come up, these resources can save you hours of frustration. Mary Maxim has a huge library of patterns that might aid with circumstances like these.

It's common for your first raglan sweater not to be perfect. Every project teaches you something new about how yarn behaves, how tight you are, and how to build things. The most important thing is to finish what you start and learn from whatever mistakes you make along the way.

Don't rush through each step, and if something isn't clear, don't be afraid to read the directions again. Crocheting shouldn't make you feel stressed out. If you start to become angry, take a break and come back to the project later with a clear mind.